As covered in the Building Physics guide, mould grows where the surface relative humidity stays high (around 80%+) for sustained periods. Two things drive surface RH up: cold surfaces (low temperature raises local RH) and humid air (more moisture in the room). Ventilation attacks the second — it removes the water vapour that pushes indoor humidity up, lowering the dew point and the surface RH everywhere in the home.
How much moisture a household generates
Homes produce a surprising amount of water vapour every day, all of which has to be removed by ventilation or it accumulates as humidity and condensation:
| Activity | Approx. moisture added |
|---|---|
| Breathing & perspiration (occupants, per day) | Several litres for a family |
| Cooking | ~1–2 litres/day |
| Showering / bathing | ~0.5–1 litre per use |
| Drying laundry indoors | ~2–3 litres per load |
| Unflued sources (some heaters, etc.) | Significant — avoid |
Ventilation rate vs surface RH
The relationship is direct: the more effectively a home ventilates (relative to the moisture it generates), the lower its average indoor humidity, and the lower the surface RH on its cold spots. A home that's under-ventilated for its moisture load runs at high humidity, so even moderately cold surfaces cross the mould threshold; the same home, well ventilated, keeps humidity down so only the very coldest surfaces are at risk. Ventilation effectively buys back margin against mould.
Why ventilation alone isn't always enough
Ventilation controls the air; it doesn't warm the surfaces. If mould is driven mainly by a severe cold spot — a thermal bridge, an uninsulated corner, single glazing — ventilation reduces the humidity but may not lift that specific cold surface clear of the mould margin. That's why durable mould prevention usually combines both levers: ventilate to control humidity AND warm the cold surfaces (insulation, thermal-bridge correction). The two together move surface temperature and dew point apart so mould has nowhere to grow.
The right ventilation for mould control
- Extract at source — humidity-sensing continuous extract (dMEV) in kitchens and bathrooms removes moisture where it's generated.
- Background ventilation — keep trickle vents open (in leakier homes) so humidity doesn't accumulate when windows are shut.
- Whole-house solution — in a tighter, well-insulated home, MVHR provides continuous, balanced, heat-recovered fresh air that keeps humidity low across the whole house without a heating penalty.
- Behaviour — vent tumble dryers externally, dry washing outside or in a vented space, use the cooker hood, and don't block the vents.
